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Korčula – Moreška

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Korčula – Moreška

The Moreška is the last authentic sword dance in the Mediterranean

In the end of the Middle Ages, the Moreška was danced all over the Mediterranean. Today it survives only in Korčula in Croatia. In every Korčulan family there is a wish for a son to play as moreškant, and for a daughter to be a bula.

Locals say „Korčula is Moreška, and Moreška is Korčula“

For centuries, the medieval town of Korčula was the only urban area on the island. Every respectable family had a house within town walls, and the only aristocracy on the island lived here as well. However, the moreška was a folk game; it was performed mainly by strong young men from shipbuilder's guilds.

On the day of st. Todor, Korčula's patron saint, all tree fraternities gather and carry their saint's relics through the city's narrow streets. The fraternity of st. Mihovil, whose members are recognized by the blue collars they wear, is known for huge candles carried in the procession by its participants.

On that day the most important Moreška of the year is performed only for inhabitants of the old town. Only the best moreškanti can perform then, and the quality of their performance is measured by the amount of sparks flying as the two swords collide.

The only female role in Moreška is played by the „bula“ – a girl that caused two armies to fight. A girl can become a bula when she turns fifteen and can play this role until her fifties. However it is the custom for women to stop playing the role of bula once they start families. Their first performance, a kind of initiation, must take place during the ceremony on St. Todor’s day.

The Moreška is not performed only in the stone theatre during St. Todor's day, but also in the background of every day life throughout the year. All the money that moreškanti earn performing for tourists is spent on parties and group trips.

Moreškanti say they don't „play“ Moreška, rather they really “fight it”. „In other sword dances, people hit swords twice in 20 seconds“ they say „However we carry out the true attack and the true defense in one second. You don't have enough time to act it – it is a real battle!“

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